http://bravenewfilms.org/watch/20180856/35714?utm_source=rgemail


7 Responses to “{OT:} Condi must go – video”
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<edspyhil…@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4b143889-0cab-448b-af7a-9264dd4ba749@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com…
> http://bravenewfilms.org/watch/20180856/35714?utm_source=rgemail
You just figured out that she’s a lying skank, and like the rest of Bush’s
crew, it was the primary qualification for being chosen?
"JoeSpareBedroom" <dishborea…@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:YkqNj.1675$NU2.161@news01.roc.ny…
> <edspyhil…@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:4b143889-0cab-448b-af7a-9264dd4ba749@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com…
>> http://bravenewfilms.org/watch/20180856/35714?utm_source=rgemail
> You just figured out that she’s a lying skank, and like the rest of Bush’s
> crew, it was the primary qualification for being chosen?
right on. She’s just another "good soldier" in Bush’s
army of sycophants. Similarly, the poor unfortunate man who used to be
Colin Powell.
When the roll is called up yonder, they’ll both fall back on the ancient
excuse…"I was just following orders…."
<edspyhil…@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4b143889-0cab-448b-af7a-9264dd4ba749@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com…
> http://bravenewfilms.org/watch/20180856/35714?utm_source=rgemail
All of you radicals who call yourselves "liberal democrats" are into
politics for one reason: To redefine morality, and make actual morality
illegal in the United States. You will do or say ANYTHING to destroy a
perceived threat to your perverted lifestyles, bad conscience toward the
innocent being part of your makeup.
—firefly
"firefly" <firefly…@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:J8INj.1886$pS4.401@newssvr13.news.prodigy.net…
> <edspyhil…@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:4b143889-0cab-448b-af7a-9264dd4ba749@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com…
>> http://bravenewfilms.org/watch/20180856/35714?utm_source=rgemail
> All of you radicals who call yourselves "liberal democrats" are into
> politics for one reason: To redefine morality, and make actual morality
> illegal in the United States. You will do or say ANYTHING to destroy a
> perceived threat to your perverted lifestyles, bad conscience toward the
> innocent being part of your makeup.
> —firefly
Your response makes no sense in the context of this discussion. Please try
again.
On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 16:44:30 +0000, firefly wrote:
> I’ve never been able to locate the horn. It works intermittently. I once
> sanded the contacts in the steering wheel and it worked perfectly unless I
> adjusted the wheel downward. I once heard the horn is near the radiator,
> but I have searched for it with no success. The way people drive you need
> to have a horn for protection in parking lots and places.
My Tercel had that problem as well. The guy who gave it to me wired in one
of those big white ‘horn buttons’ that worked all the time. When I got the
car the regular horn button worked like you said. If I was driving along
in an area where there was nothing around (common here im Mass) I would
blow the horn a few times, and it was hit or miss. When I finally took it
for inspection (I was running it on a Dealer plate) the horn worked, and
worked fine from then on…
> The guy who rebuilt my transmission last summer put fluid in there that
> goes 3" up the dip stick past "hot". I asked him about it this morning
> and he said it doesn’t matter at all…
That’s because he wants to rebuild it again. There is pressure in a trans
when it’s running, and overfilling can cause the seals to blow. There is a
drain plug on this, drain some out until it is at the proper level.
Er, you are running the engine at idle, with the transmission warmed up
and the lever in Neutral when you check the fluid, right?
> How important is it to have the bushings done in the front struts? Is it
> easy to do yourself, to avoid an $80 charge?
Bushings control ride and the amount of harshness you feel through the
wheel, and have as much to do with ride comfort as shocks. I need bushings
on my Supra and my Mazda. I think it’s easier to swap out suspensions
components. People have told me it’s harder than HELL to press in bushings!
> Batteries:
> I saved a new Die Hard and another new battery from Auto Zone a few years
> back. Is it true that batteries go bad if you don’t charge them? And do
> they decompose at the same 3-4 year rate just sitting there? Are they
> decomposing in the stores before they are installed?
> —firefly
Interesting…in 1999 I put a new Toyota battery in my ’85 Corolla. In
2001 I parked the car, and have only driven a few times since. I needed a
battery for my Mazda, and it was the same model as the Corolla battery. I
yanked it, charged it and it has been running flawlessly since. That was
December 2006.
84-94 Tercels use MacPherson Struts. It’s similar to the Camry setup
and the only structural rubber is the upper mount. So not sure when
you mention "bushings" of the front struts. Maybe strut bellow that
keeps out dirt? Or strut bumper that prevents the strut from impacting
the upper spring seat? Because a mount alone for a Tercel costs about
$50 and that’s online discount price.
See:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1b/8e/e7/0900823d801...
ATF should be between high and low hot marks when checked with the
engine hot and running. At most 1/4" above in hot temp but 3"? (!)
Maybe it’s ok, but maybe you need to get a new mechanic?
Batteries do have sulfate build up and lose capacity after normal use
or storage. 6 months without a battery maintainer I’d say it’s done,
that’s why you should check the production date for a "fresh"
battery. Hachiroku’s mileage obviously varies.
Buy a fresh battery, 6mo or less:
http://autos.msn.com/advice/CRArt.aspx?contentid=4023696
I get new batteries every 5 years or so to help lengthen the service
life of alternators because an alternator will work hard to charge a
weak battery and burn out sooner. Johnson Controls (JCI) are good
batteries (Walmart, Autozone, Toyota gave awards to JCI) but I prefer
AC Delco’s maintenance free if you can find them. Costs $30 more but a
much better battery IMO.
On Apr 16, 9:44 am, "firefly" <firefly…@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> I’ve never been able to locate the horn. It works intermittently. I once
> sanded the contacts in the steering wheel and it worked perfectly unless I
> adjusted the wheel downward. I once heard the horn is near the radiator,
> but I have searched for it with no success. The way people drive you need
> to have a horn for protection in parking lots and places.
> The guy who rebuilt my transmission last summer put fluid in there that goes
> 3" up the dip stick past "hot". I asked him about it this morning and he
> said it doesn’t matter at all…
> How important is it to have the bushings done in the front struts? Is it
> easy to do yourself, to avoid an $80 charge?
> Batteries:
> I saved a new Die Hard and another new battery from Auto Zone a few years
> back. Is it true that batteries go bad if you don’t charge them? And do
> they decompose at the same 3-4 year rate just sitting there? Are they
> decomposing in the stores before they are installed?
> —firefly
"firefly" <firefly…@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:O1qNj.2929$h75.1965@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net…
> I’ve never been able to locate the horn. It works intermittently. I once
> sanded the contacts in the steering wheel and it worked perfectly unless I
> adjusted the wheel downward. I once heard the horn is near the radiator,
> but I have searched for it with no success. The way people drive you need
> to have a horn for protection in parking lots and places.
If the horn does not work when the steering wheel is adjusted downward, one
or more wires in the steering column is probably damaged or has a loose
connection. Besides sanding the contacts in the steering wheel, a little
dielectric grease would help.
I forget exactly where the horn is, but the easy way to find it is to have
someone depress the horn button while you look under the hood. It is
probably either in front of the radiator somewhere or back near the firewall
on the passenger side.
> The guy who rebuilt my transmission last summer put fluid in there that
> goes 3" up the dip stick past "hot". I asked him about it this morning
> and he said it doesn’t matter at all…
Drain the excess fluid and find another source of transmission advice.
> How important is it to have the bushings done in the front struts? Is it
> easy to do yourself, to avoid an $80 charge?
"Easy" is a relative term. Something that is easy for someone who is
familiar with the parts of the suspension nand how they work might find it
easy, while someone who is not familiar with how a suspension works and
which parts are under load and which parts are not would probably have a
difficult time.
I’m not sure which bushings you are talking about, but to change strut
bushings, you probably need to remove the entire front strut assembly, use a
strut spring compressor to remove the strut, then replace the bushing. This
is more than an $80 job.
If you are talking about a front sway bar bushing, all you have to do is
remove the bushing retainer, pull the old bushing off, and reverse the
process.
> Batteries:
> I saved a new Die Hard and another new battery from Auto Zone a few years
> back. Is it true that batteries go bad if you don’t charge them? And do
> they decompose at the same 3-4 year rate just sitting there? Are they
> decomposing in the stores before they are installed?
> —firefly
Yes, batteries go bad if you do not charge them because they become sulfated
and lose their ability to hold a charge. After 3 or 4 years of sitting
around, the battery is probably bad. The batteries do lose their charge in
stores before they are installed, but battery vendors come in to rotate
stock, and take batteries that have been sitting around for a while back to
their facility to top off the charge and replace the date stickers.
—
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)