OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
Bar’s Head gasket repair.
http://www.barsproducts.com/1100.htm
Yeah, I’ve got some snake oil in the refrigerator, too.
All the car has to do is last until April or May. If this stuff works,
fine. It’s supposed to be permanent, but I’m keeping my betting money in
my pocket.
If you want to try this stuff, be prepared to spend a couple days (or one
good summer day; of course, the gaskets on my car couldn’t wait for nicer
weather…) I was also looking at K&W Permanent Head gasket and block
repair
http://www.autocarepronews.com/default.aspx?type=art&id=5191&
I bought the Bar’s stuff since they’re as old as dirt. I called tech
support at both places before beginning and they both stressed one thing:
Make sure ALL the anti-freeze is out of the engine! If you flush the
system, and the water is running yellow, flush it again. It has to be
clear water. The were both adamant about this.
So, I spent yesterday draining, filling, draining, flushing, draining,
filling, flushing until the water coming out of any open orifice was
crystal clear. By this time it was 9PM and I had to eveict the Supra from
the heated garage, since there was still some water and NO anti-freeze in
the engine.
This morning I put the thermostat back in and placed a hose to bypass the
heater core. This was a thought I had, and even though it is not mentioned
on either bottle in the detailed instructions, both tech support people
recommended this since the heater core has smaller passages than the
radiator.
I mixed the stuff according to instructions; one bottle with 3 quarts warm
water, and filled the radiator. They want to make sure the cooling system
is full, so you run the car until the t-stat opens, shut it down ,wait and
check. Refill and start again. Do this a couple times until the radiator
is full.
Then start the car and run it at a high idle. This is where I am right
now. I have to admit, the ‘chuffing’ sound the car was making is
subsiding. You have to run the car at a high idle for 20-30 minutes. It
also says if the leak has just started or is very small, to return the
engine to normal idle and run of one hour. Since the gaskets just started
going, this is what I’ll do. I am almost at the end of the 20 minute high
idle cycle now, and as I said, the chuffing noise is drastically
diminished.
After this is complete, you cool the car again, and drain the mixture out
of the car. My poor Supra is going to have to stay outside (first time
it’s seen snow in 5 years…) because you have to drain the colling system
thoroughly and let it sit for at least 12 hours, and then flush again,
then refill with regular anti-freeze.
Wish me luck…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:44:34 GMT, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
>OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
>Bar’s Head gasket repair.
>http://www.barsproducts.com/1100.htm
>Yeah, I’ve got some snake oil in the refrigerator, too.
>All the car has to do is last until April or May. If this stuff works,
>fine. It’s supposed to be permanent, but I’m keeping my betting money in
>my pocket.
>If you want to try this stuff, be prepared to spend a couple days (or one
>good summer day; of course, the gaskets on my car couldn’t wait for nicer
>weather…) I was also looking at K&W Permanent Head gasket and block
>repair
>http://www.autocarepronews.com/default.aspx?type=art&id=5191&
>I bought the Bar’s stuff since they’re as old as dirt. I called tech
>support at both places before beginning and they both stressed one thing:
>Make sure ALL the anti-freeze is out of the engine! If you flush the
>system, and the water is running yellow, flush it again. It has to be
>clear water. The were both adamant about this.
>So, I spent yesterday draining, filling, draining, flushing, draining,
>filling, flushing until the water coming out of any open orifice was
>crystal clear. By this time it was 9PM and I had to eveict the Supra from
>the heated garage, since there was still some water and NO anti-freeze in
>the engine.
>This morning I put the thermostat back in and placed a hose to bypass the
>heater core. This was a thought I had, and even though it is not mentioned
>on either bottle in the detailed instructions, both tech support people
>recommended this since the heater core has smaller passages than the
>radiator.
>I mixed the stuff according to instructions; one bottle with 3 quarts warm
>water, and filled the radiator. They want to make sure the cooling system
>is full, so you run the car until the t-stat opens, shut it down ,wait and
>check. Refill and start again. Do this a couple times until the radiator
>is full.
>Then start the car and run it at a high idle. This is where I am right
>now. I have to admit, the ‘chuffing’ sound the car was making is
>subsiding. You have to run the car at a high idle for 20-30 minutes. It
>also says if the leak has just started or is very small, to return the
>engine to normal idle and run of one hour. Since the gaskets just started
>going, this is what I’ll do. I am almost at the end of the 20 minute high
>idle cycle now, and as I said, the chuffing noise is drastically
>diminished.
>After this is complete, you cool the car again, and drain the mixture out
>of the car. My poor Supra is going to have to stay outside (first time
>it’s seen snow in 5 years…) because you have to drain the colling system
>thoroughly and let it sit for at least 12 hours, and then flush again,
>then refill with regular anti-freeze.
>Wish me luck…
Good luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
–
Scott in Florida
On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:44:34 GMT, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
>OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
>Bar’s Head gasket repair.
Big Bunch Snipped
Parden me for asking Mr. Hachiroku but from what you’ve said you had
to do to use this stuff, wouldn’t it be faster to just replace the
head gasket? Yeah, it would cost more money but then you’d know it
was fixed.
Jack
On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 01:51:17 +0000, Retired VIP wrote:
> On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:44:34 GMT, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
>>OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
>>Bar’s Head gasket repair.
> Big Bunch Snipped
> Parden me for asking Mr. Hachiroku but from what you’ve said you had to do
> to use this stuff, wouldn’t it be faster to just replace the head gasket?
> Yeah, it would cost more money but then you’d know it was fixed.
> Jack
Ya know, Jack, right around suppertime I was thinking the very same thing!
However, it’s 23 degrees today, and I have to do most work on the apron
outside the garage, ’cause garage space was not a big priority for the
people that built this house. There’s just about enough room to swing a
cat…
"Hachiroku" <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote in message
news:GPanj.7689$8q6.7485@trndny03…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 01:51:17 +0000, Retired VIP wrote:
>> On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:44:34 GMT, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
>>>OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
>>>Bar’s Head gasket repair.
>> Big Bunch Snipped
>> Parden me for asking Mr. Hachiroku but from what you’ve said you had to
>> do
>> to use this stuff, wouldn’t it be faster to just replace the head gasket?
>> Yeah, it would cost more money but then you’d know it was fixed.
>> Jack
> Ya know, Jack, right around suppertime I was thinking the very same thing!
> However, it’s 23 degrees today, and I have to do most work on the apron
> outside the garage, ’cause garage space was not a big priority for the
> people that built this house. There’s just about enough room to swing a
> cat…
Well ask ANY reliable radiator shop what they think of "Bar’s"
products….when the guy stops laughing at you he might tell you WHY…
It’s a poorly designed fix, for a poorly designed engine. You think you have
problems now, wait till you put that shit in your cooling system
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 18:56:34 -0800, Roger Buttsnort wrote:
> "Hachiroku" <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote in message
> news:GPanj.7689$8q6.7485@trndny03…
>> On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 01:51:17 +0000, Retired VIP wrote:
>>> On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:44:34 GMT, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
>>>>OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
>>>>Bar’s Head gasket repair.
>>> Big Bunch Snipped
>>> Parden me for asking Mr. Hachiroku but from what you’ve said you had to
>>> do
>>> to use this stuff, wouldn’t it be faster to just replace the head
>>> gasket? Yeah, it would cost more money but then you’d know it was
>>> fixed.
>>> Jack
>> Ya know, Jack, right around suppertime I was thinking the very same
>> thing!
>> However, it’s 23 degrees today, and I have to do most work on the apron
>> outside the garage, ’cause garage space was not a big priority for the
>> people that built this house. There’s just about enough room to swing a
>> cat…
> Well ask ANY reliable radiator shop what they think of "Bar’s"
> products….when the guy stops laughing at you he might tell you WHY…
> It’s a poorly designed fix, for a poorly designed engine. You think you
> have problems now, wait till you put that shit in your cooling system
I said in the original post, the people I talked to at Tech Support said
you have to get ALL the anti-freeze out. They said I would only have a
problem if there was anti-freeze in the system.
It’s done…we’ll see…
Hachiroku wrote:
> Wish me luck…
good luck, keep us posted!
Andy
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
Ashton Crusher wrote:
> On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:44:34 GMT, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
>> OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
>> Bar’s Head gasket repair.
>> http://www.barsproducts.com/1100.htm
>> Yeah, I’ve got some snake oil in the refrigerator, too.
>> All the car has to do is last until April or May. If this stuff works,
>> fine. It’s supposed to be permanent, but I’m keeping my betting money in
>> my pocket.
>> If you want to try this stuff, be prepared to spend a couple days (or one
>> good summer day; of course, the gaskets on my car couldn’t wait for nicer
>> weather…) I was also looking at K&W Permanent Head gasket and block
>> repair
>> http://www.autocarepronews.com/default.aspx?type=art&id=5191&
> Snip..
> I did the same thing on a Toyota with a bad head gasket. It fixed it.
> Then the transmission started acting funny. So I sold it. Car only
> had 100K on it and it was falling apart… so much for quality Toyota
> products. And it had been bought new by my in laws and they did not
> abuse it in any way.
Every car maker makes a few bad cars.
The plural of anecdote is not data.
Hachi,
If it’s any comfort to you, I had a Peugeot about 15 years ago with a head
gasket problem – lots of water in the oil – and drove it over to Newport
Beach, to the only Peugeot mechanic within many miles, who said he’d replace
the head gasket for about $1500. When I got up off the floor, I asked why,
and he said it would include a valve job, etc etc. I told him NO valve
job. He said he wouldn’t do it and got a little snotty, so I bade him
goodbye.
Went home and bought a bottle of Bar’s Stop Leak and poured it in the
radiator (without draining the coolant out, as your guy recommended). It was
about $5 as I recall, in a bottle about the size of one you’d get rubbing
alcohol in.
Long story short, I drove the car another two years until I sold it with no
water in the oil, and no problems with the cooling system. worked for me,
and I hope it does for you!
On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:29:37 -0700, Ashton Crusher wrote:
>>If you want to try this stuff, be prepared to spend a couple days (or one
>>good summer day; of course, the gaskets on my car couldn’t wait for nicer
>>weather…) I was also looking at K&W Permanent Head gasket and block
>>repair
>>http://www.autocarepronews.com/default.aspx?type=art&id=5191&
> Snip..
> I did the same thing on a Toyota with a bad head gasket. It fixed it.
Well, this is encouraging. What product did you use?
> Then the transmission started acting funny. So I sold it. Car only
> had 100K on it and it was falling apart… so much for quality Toyota
> products. And it had been bought new by my in laws and they did not
> abuse it in any way.
Hmmm…this is not good. I have had a passle of Toyotas, and each one is
better than the one before. My first was in 1974, so by the 80′s I had
some pretty decent cars!
Every once in a while you hear a horror story about a Toyota, but nowhere
near as much as Fords or Chevys…or Chrysler trannies!
On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 23:29:44 -0800, mack wrote:
> Long story short, I drove the car another two years until I sold it with no
> water in the oil, and no problems with the cooling system. worked for me,
> and I hope it does for you!
I’m on the last stage now; flushing and refilling. It’s taking a while
since it’s hovering right around freezing, and cracking the block is the
last thing I want to do right now!
But, the gaskets were JUST starting to go; no oil in the water, no water
in the oil, and it just started spitting steam from the tailpipe Friday.
The mechanic said they were very light leaks and doing this should get a
few more months at least before I have to pull the heads.
"Hachiroku" <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote in message
news:6X6nj.7678$8q6.7581@trndny03…
> OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
> Bar’s Head gasket repair.
> http://www.barsproducts.com/1100.htm
> Yeah, I’ve got some snake oil in the refrigerator, too.
> All the car has to do is last until April or May. If this stuff works,
> fine. It’s supposed to be permanent, but I’m keeping my betting money in
> my pocket.
It’s only permenent if by that you mean "works long enough to get out of
warranty so SOA doesnt have to pay for a gasket replacement."
"Retired VIP" <jackj.extradots….@windstream.net> wrote in message
news:i3dqp3hq961ql5h896qce4s6marvmukssm@4ax.com…
> On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:44:34 GMT, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
>>OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
>>Bar’s Head gasket repair.
> Big Bunch Snipped
> Parden me for asking Mr. Hachiroku but from what you’ve said you had
> to do to use this stuff, wouldn’t it be faster to just replace the
> head gasket? Yeah, it would cost more money but then you’d know it
> was fixed.
There’s also some risk associated with the repair- quality of services
is not always top notch (people encounter various problems associated
with the repair such as mis-alighnned belt teeth, etc.), also Subaru head
gaskets can be a nasty re-occuring problem.
I am a great fan of giving patch-up jobs a chance.
They do work many times and can be economical, if done the
right way and without delay (!). If the guy can get 10K, or
15k, miles out of some cheap fix what’s wrong with that?
M.J.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Jack
On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:39:43 -0600, alf wrote:
> Hachiroku wrote:
>> Wish me luck…
> good luck, keep us posted!
> Andy
So far, so good. It seems it may have actually worked. Once I clean up the
anti-freeze that spilled all over the car, I’ll see if any more appears…
It’s not sluggish anymore, it’s not steaming, and seems to be running ok.
One thing…there is a kind of a grinding noise from the front of the car.
The guys at Autozone think maybe it also sealed the bearing on the water
pump…?
Eh, water pump’s $35…and another weekend…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 00:02:27 +0000, M.J. wrote:
> "Retired VIP" <jackj.extradots….@windstream.net> wrote in message
> news:i3dqp3hq961ql5h896qce4s6marvmukssm@4ax.com…
>> On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:44:34 GMT, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
>>>OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
>>>Bar’s Head gasket repair.
>> Big Bunch Snipped
>> Parden me for asking Mr. Hachiroku but from what you’ve said you had to
>> do to use this stuff, wouldn’t it be faster to just replace the head
>> gasket? Yeah, it would cost more money but then you’d know it was
>> fixed.
> There’s also some risk associated with the repair- quality of services is
> not always top notch (people encounter various problems associated with
> the repair such as mis-alighnned belt teeth, etc.), also Subaru head
> gaskets can be a nasty re-occuring problem.
> I am a great fan of giving patch-up jobs a chance.
> They do work many times and can be economical, if done the right way and
> without delay (!). If the guy can get 10K, or 15k, miles out of some
> cheap fix what’s wrong with that?
> M.J.
>> Jack
I think I need about 12K! We’ll see! ;)
"Roger Blake" <rogblak…@iname10.com> wrote in message
news:slrnfpt9ib.laa.rogblake10@moog.netaxs.com…
> In article <pan.2008.01.28.10.50.41.906…@ae86.gts>, Hachiroku wrote:
>> near as much as Fords or Chevys…or Chrysler trannies!
> I don’t know where you get that idea, Chrysler transmissions are
> pretty much the gold standard. The Torqueflite in my car has been
> working great for over 30 years, needing no attention other than the
> occasional fluid and filter change.
BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!!
You’re kidding, right?
I believe we might be talking about two different barsleak products. It
sounds like the one you are using is the one I like that has the plastic
balls in it.
You don’t have to drain the radiator down for this one and it works most of
the time for quite awhile. If it was to fail, I’d apply it again.
The other one may be what I’ve heard of recently that is suppose to put some
kind of glass coat on or something like that.
The only person I’ve heard of that used this type said it didn’t work for
them.
The plastic ball type has worked a couple of times for me and is much less
hassle to use.
Barsleak makes a lot of products, some work and some don’t and I suppose it
makes a difference on what the particular problem is and how the product was
applied.
The gray to black liquid with the grayish balls in it is what I’ve found to
work the best on gasket leaks in the subs.
Some other manufacturers make a similar product. It was one of these I used
successfully the first time I learned about this stuff.
—
Bob Noble
http://www.sonic.net/bnoble
"mack" <macke…@dslextreme.com> wrote in message
news:13pr13dlkbj1ldb@corp.supernews.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Hachi,
> If it’s any comfort to you, I had a Peugeot about 15 years ago with a head
> gasket problem – lots of water in the oil – and drove it over to Newport
> Beach, to the only Peugeot mechanic within many miles, who said he’d
> replace the head gasket for about $1500. When I got up off the floor, I
> asked why, and he said it would include a valve job, etc etc. I told him
> NO valve job. He said he wouldn’t do it and got a little snotty, so I
> bade him goodbye.
> Went home and bought a bottle of Bar’s Stop Leak and poured it in the
> radiator (without draining the coolant out, as your guy recommended). It
> was about $5 as I recall, in a bottle about the size of one you’d get
> rubbing alcohol in.
> Long story short, I drove the car another two years until I sold it with
> no water in the oil, and no problems with the cooling system. worked for
> me, and I hope it does for you!
"Hachiroku" <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote in message
news:4_wnj.623$fg.520@trndny03…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 00:02:27 +0000, M.J. wrote:
>> "Retired VIP" <jackj.extradots….@windstream.net> wrote in message
>> news:i3dqp3hq961ql5h896qce4s6marvmukssm@4ax.com…
>>> On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:44:34 GMT, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
>>>>OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
>>>>Bar’s Head gasket repair.
>>> Big Bunch Snipped
>>> Parden me for asking Mr. Hachiroku but from what you’ve said you had to
>>> do to use this stuff, wouldn’t it be faster to just replace the head
>>> gasket? Yeah, it would cost more money but then you’d know it was
>>> fixed.
>> There’s also some risk associated with the repair- quality of services is
>> not always top notch (people encounter various problems associated with
>> the repair such as mis-alighnned belt teeth, etc.),
Actually, risk of poorly milled heads is what I had in mind when I
wrote above.
M.J.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> also Subaru head
>> gaskets can be a nasty re-occuring problem.
>> I am a great fan of giving patch-up jobs a chance.
>> They do work many times and can be economical, if done the right way and
>> without delay (!). If the guy can get 10K, or 15k, miles out of some
>> cheap fix what’s wrong with that?
>> M.J.
>>> Jack
> I think I need about 12K! We’ll see! ;)
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 00:02:27 GMT, "M.J." <M…@yahoo.com> wrote:
>"Retired VIP" <jackj.extradots….@windstream.net> wrote in message
>news:i3dqp3hq961ql5h896qce4s6marvmukssm@4ax.com…
>> On Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:44:34 GMT, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
>>>OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
>>>Bar’s Head gasket repair.
>> Big Bunch Snipped
>> Parden me for asking Mr. Hachiroku but from what you’ve said you had
>> to do to use this stuff, wouldn’t it be faster to just replace the
>> head gasket? Yeah, it would cost more money but then you’d know it
>> was fixed.
>There’s also some risk associated with the repair- quality of services
>is not always top notch (people encounter various problems associated
>with the repair such as mis-alighnned belt teeth, etc.), also Subaru head
>gaskets can be a nasty re-occuring problem.
>I am a great fan of giving patch-up jobs a chance.
>They do work many times and can be economical, if done the
>right way and without delay (!). If the guy can get 10K, or
>15k, miles out of some cheap fix what’s wrong with that?
>M.J.
>> Jack
I didn’t mean to imply that I thought you were doing the wrong thing
in using it. I was just amazed at how much prep work was needed
before you even broke the seal on the can.
There’s risk associated with just getting out of bed in the morning,
so that isn’t a good reason for using it but cost is. The last time I
pulled a head to replace a head gasket was on a ’49 Merc flat-head V8.
That was like pulling the head on my lawn mower. I don’t know what
kind of work you’d have in pulling the head on your Subaru.
Jack
On Jan 27, 4:44 pm, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> OK, ‘repairing’ the headgaskets on the Subaru. Using some stuff called
> Bar’s Head gasket repair.
> http://www.barsproducts.com/1100.htm
> Yeah, I’ve got some snake oil in the refrigerator, too.
> All the car has to do is last until April or May. If this stuff works,
> fine. It’s supposed to be permanent, but I’m keeping my betting money in
> my pocket.
> If you want to try this stuff, be prepared to spend a couple days (or one
> good summer day; of course, the gaskets on my car couldn’t wait for nicer
> weather…) I was also looking at K&W Permanent Head gasket and block
> repair
> http://www.autocarepronews.com/default.aspx?type=art&id=5191&
> I bought the Bar’s stuff since they’re as old as dirt. I called tech
> support at both places before beginning and they both stressed one thing:
> Make sure ALL the anti-freeze is out of the engine! If you flush the
> system, and the water is running yellow, flush it again. It has to be
> clear water. The were both adamant about this.
> So, I spent yesterday draining, filling, draining, flushing, draining,
> filling, flushing until the water coming out of any open orifice was
> crystal clear. By this time it was 9PM and I had to eveict the Supra from
> the heated garage, since there was still some water and NO anti-freeze in
> the engine.
> This morning I put the thermostat back in and placed a hose to bypass the
> heater core. This was a thought I had, and even though it is not mentioned
> on either bottle in the detailed instructions, both tech support people
> recommended this since the heater core has smaller passages than the
> radiator.
> I mixed the stuff according to instructions; one bottle with 3 quarts warm
> water, and filled the radiator. They want to make sure the cooling system
> is full, so you run the car until the t-stat opens, shut it down ,wait and
> check. Refill and start again. Do this a couple times until the radiator
> is full.
> Then start the car and run it at a high idle. This is where I am right
> now. I have to admit, the ‘chuffing’ sound the car was making is
> subsiding. You have to run the car at a high idle for 20-30 minutes. It
> also says if the leak has just started or is very small, to return the
> engine to normal idle and run of one hour. Since the gaskets just started
> going, this is what I’ll do. I am almost at the end of the 20 minute high
> idle cycle now, and as I said, the chuffing noise is drastically
> diminished.
> After this is complete, you cool the car again, and drain the mixture out
> of the car. My poor Supra is going to have to stay outside (first time
> it’s seen snow in 5 years…) because you have to drain the colling system
> thoroughly and let it sit for at least 12 hours, and then flush again,
> then refill with regular anti-freeze.
> Wish me luck…
I would think it depends on the leak, no? a leak into the combustion
chamber or exhaust would be a lot harder to fix with something you put
into the coolant, than a leak into the intake side.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
Calab wrote:
> "Roger Blake" <rogblak…@iname10.com> wrote in message
> news:slrnfpt9ib.laa.rogblake10@moog.netaxs.com…
>> In article <pan.2008.01.28.10.50.41.906…@ae86.gts>, Hachiroku wrote:
>>> near as much as Fords or Chevys…or Chrysler trannies!
>> I don’t know where you get that idea, Chrysler transmissions are
>> pretty much the gold standard. The Torqueflite in my car has been
>> working great for over 30 years, needing no attention other than the
>> occasional fluid and filter change.
> BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!!
> You’re kidding, right?
the 727 Torqueflight is still one of the strongest automatic
transmissions ever made up till about ’95.
On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 04:06:32 +0000, Roger Blake wrote:
> The Torqueflite in my car has been working great
> for over 30 years
This is the key statement.
Chrysler went to ATF +3, and then to ATF +4.
Problem was, their customers stayed with Dexron/Mercon. Doesn’t work in a
Chrysler tranny…
On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 22:31:08 -0700, Ashton Crusher wrote:
>>Well, this is encouraging. What product did you use?
> It wasn’t Barrs. K&W sounds familiar. The instructions were identical to
> yours. The car went from running on three cylinders to purring like a
> kitten on four. Then the tranny started failing…..
Yeah, K&W Nanotechnology Head Gasket Repair. They were side by side on the
shelf.
I decided $9.99 was enough for snake oil rather than $19.99…
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On Thu, 31 Jan 2008 02:57:08 GMT, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
>On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 22:31:08 -0700, Ashton Crusher wrote:
>>>Well, this is encouraging. What product did you use?
>> It wasn’t Barrs. K&W sounds familiar. The instructions were identical to
>> yours. The car went from running on three cylinders to purring like a
>> kitten on four. Then the tranny started failing…..
>Yeah, K&W Nanotechnology Head Gasket Repair. They were side by side on the
>shelf.
>I decided $9.99 was enough for snake oil rather than $19.99…
Solved both the headgasket AND heater core leaks on my cousin’s Soob –
worked ’till he scrapped it a year later. The car was NOT worth
replacing a gasket on, but it got him through the winter, where the
4wd was a necessity for him, then through the summer
–
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 22:27:18 -0500, wrote:
> On Thu, 31 Jan 2008 02:57:08 GMT, Hachiroku <Tru…@ae86.gts> wrote:
>>On Tue, 29 Jan 2008 22:31:08 -0700, Ashton Crusher wrote:
>>>>Well, this is encouraging. What product did you use?
>>> It wasn’t Barrs. K&W sounds familiar. The instructions were identical to
>>> yours. The car went from running on three cylinders to purring like a
>>> kitten on four. Then the tranny started failing…..
>>Yeah, K&W Nanotechnology Head Gasket Repair. They were side by side on the
>>shelf.
>>I decided $9.99 was enough for snake oil rather than $19.99…
> Solved both the headgasket AND heater core leaks on my cousin’s Soob –
> worked ’till he scrapped it a year later. The car was NOT worth
> replacing a gasket on, but it got him through the winter, where the
> 4wd was a necessity for him, then through the summer
I’m not sure if it’s working or not. The leak was intermittant to begin
with, and today was giving me trouble again, in that acceleration up hills
is sluggish.
Wish it were warmer, I’d just yank the d@mn head gaskets and do it!!!