In my ’90 4Runner the yellow "rear Anti-lock brake system" light comes on
after I travel about 5 miles, also my parking brake light always stays on
but some times it is real dim, and other times it is bright as if I had the
brake on. That light always dims a little when I turn the parking brake
off. I have plenty of fluid in my reserve, what is the problem?
Brian
PS - sometimes I notice that when I try to stop quickly, it seems like
I can push the brake to the floor before anything happens.
I have a ’90 4Runner that with parking brake light would always stay on. I
heard the the sensor in the brake fluid reserve was bad, so I disconnected
it. Now the parking brake light only comes on with the parking brake is on
and this even fixed my broken cruse control.
Brian Linger
Comment by admin — January 29, 2010 @ 5:16 am
In article <6pvi7j$mg…@marshall.shentel.net>,
br…@linger.com says…
> I have a ’90 4Runner that with parking brake light would always stay on. I
> heard the the sensor in the brake fluid reserve was bad, so I disconnected
> it. Now the parking brake light only comes on with the parking brake is on
> and this even fixed my broken cruse control.
> Brian Linger
Why don’t you have the sensor replaced and fix the
problem. As it is now you have 2 problems to fix, and
more importantly, you have compromised your brake system
and if you ever have a fluid loss you will not know it
till its maybe too late. REPLACE THE SENSOR!!!
good luck Pat S
Comment by admin — January 29, 2010 @ 5:16 am
Patrick Sullivan wrote:
> In article <6pvi7j$mg…@marshall.shentel.net>,
> br…@linger.com says…
> > I have a ’90 4Runner that with parking brake light would always stay on. I
> > heard the the sensor in the brake fluid reserve was bad, so I disconnected
> > it. Now the parking brake light only comes on with the parking brake is on
> > and this even fixed my broken cruse control.
> Why don’t you have the sensor replaced and fix the
> problem. As it is now you have 2 problems to fix, and
> more importantly, you have compromised your brake system
> and if you ever have a fluid loss you will not know it
> till its maybe too late. REPLACE THE SENSOR!!!
for one thing, it’s over $70 for the sensor. next, the reservoir is so
easy to spot whenever you open the hood, you’re either blind or lazy to
not check your vehicle’s fluid levels in the first place.
before i did the same thing to my 90 4runner, i checked with a few
sources about what the consequences are. and what everyone told me is
that the sensor just tells me the fluid is low. no impact on braking
performance at all.
then for about half a year, i checked the fluid regularly, and for about
a year, i don’t remember adding fluid at all…
–
——————–
leo g. divinagracia iii
ldivi…@csuhayward.edu <– real address
ANTI-SPAM alert: remove the asterisk (*)
from the domain name.
Comment by admin — January 29, 2010 @ 5:16 am
In article <6q8cuo$pi…@hades.csu.net>,
ldivinag@csu*hayward.edu says…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Patrick Sullivan wrote:
> > In article <6pvi7j$mg…@marshall.shentel.net>,
> > br…@linger.com says…
> > > I have a ’90 4Runner that with parking brake light would always stay on. I
> > > heard the the sensor in the brake fluid reserve was bad, so I disconnected
> > > it. Now the parking brake light only comes on with the parking brake is on
> > > and this even fixed my broken cruse control.
> > Why don’t you have the sensor replaced and fix the
> > problem. As it is now you have 2 problems to fix, and
> > more importantly, you have compromised your brake system
> > and if you ever have a fluid loss you will not know it
> > till its maybe too late. REPLACE THE SENSOR!!!
> for one thing, it’s over $70 for the sensor. next, the reservoir is so
> easy to spot whenever you open the hood, you’re either blind or lazy to
> not check your vehicle’s fluid levels in the first place.
> before i did the same thing to my 90 4runner, i checked with a few
> sources about what the consequences are. and what everyone told me is
> that the sensor just tells me the fluid is low. no impact on braking
> performance at all.
> then for about half a year, i checked the fluid regularly, and for about
> a year, i don’t remember adding fluid at all…
Hi there .. Oh I can see your point, But my point is say
your driving 80 mph down I-5 and a component of your
braking system pukes its guts out and no fluid…. at
least you know, if you bypass and don’t know…well. Yea
I’ll be the first one to stand in line for saving $70.00,
but not at the expense that, that would be a BAD thing.
Theres always MURPHYS LAW, and of course you know" Shit
Happens" more often than not.
Bye all and good luck Pat S.
Comment by admin — January 29, 2010 @ 5:16 am
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
leo d. wrote:
> Patrick Sullivan wrote:
> > In article <6pvi7j$mg…@marshall.shentel.net>,
> > br…@linger.com says…
> > > I have a ’90 4Runner that with parking brake light would always stay on. I
> > > heard the the sensor in the brake fluid reserve was bad, so I disconnected
> > > it. Now the parking brake light only comes on with the parking brake is on
> > > and this even fixed my broken cruse control.
> > Why don’t you have the sensor replaced and fix the
> > problem. As it is now you have 2 problems to fix, and
> > more importantly, you have compromised your brake system
> > and if you ever have a fluid loss you will not know it
> > till its maybe too late. REPLACE THE SENSOR!!!
> for one thing, it’s over $70 for the sensor. next, the reservoir is so
> easy to spot whenever you open the hood, you’re either blind or lazy to
> not check your vehicle’s fluid levels in the first place.
> before i did the same thing to my 90 4runner, i checked with a few
> sources about what the consequences are. and what everyone told me is
> that the sensor just tells me the fluid is low. no impact on braking
> performance at all.
> then for about half a year, i checked the fluid regularly, and for about
> a year, i don’t remember adding fluid at all…
Actually this sensor isnt supposed to tell you just your fluid is low,
its designed to tell your front brake pad lining is low!
The design of this is you never add fluid, when it gets low, the front
linings are worn way down! This is actually how this system is designed,
and when you add fluid, it throws it all off!
***Rick Jones, Toyota Master Diagnostic Tech/ASE Master Tech/L-1***
Grand Teton/Yellowstone website is up and running, check it out
at: http://www2.netcom.com/~ssauer40/cartoons.htm
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Comment by admin — January 29, 2010 @ 5:16 am
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
"leo d." <ldivinag@csu*hayward.edu> wrote:
>Patrick Sullivan wrote:
>> In article <6pvi7j$mg…@marshall.shentel.net>,
>> br…@linger.com says…
>> > I have a ’90 4Runner that with parking brake light would always stay on. I
>> > heard the the sensor in the brake fluid reserve was bad, so I disconnected
>> > it. Now the parking brake light only comes on with the parking brake is on
>> > and this even fixed my broken cruse control.
>> Why don’t you have the sensor replaced and fix the
>> problem. As it is now you have 2 problems to fix, and
>> more importantly, you have compromised your brake system
>> and if you ever have a fluid loss you will not know it
>> till its maybe too late. REPLACE THE SENSOR!!!
>for one thing, it’s over $70 for the sensor.
So what?
>before i did the same thing to my 90 4runner, i checked with a few
>sources about what the consequences are. and what everyone told me is
>that the sensor just tells me the fluid is low. no impact on braking
>performance at all.
They didn’t tell you about the relationship to the cruise control!
And, what about the danging wire under the hood? Does it look good?
You should REPLACE THE SENSOR!
Comment by admin — January 29, 2010 @ 5:16 am
Ms. Manners wrote:
> They didn’t tell you about the relationship to the cruise control!
> And, what about the danging wire under the hood? Does it look good?
> You should REPLACE THE SENSOR!
actually, the reason was because of the CC. it refused to turn on. i
checked the fluid and it was fine. but the light on the dash would
blink and the CC would refuse to work. then i unplugged it and it’s
worked ever since…
–
——————–
leo g. divinagracia iii
ldivi…@csuhayward.edu <– real address
ANTI-SPAM alert: remove the asterisk (*)
from the domain name.
Comment by admin — January 29, 2010 @ 5:16 am
My ’88 did the same thing. Hardened valves according to the dealer(and Rick).
Your repair is cheap, mine was $1,300.00. I’d do it if you’re going to keep
the car another couple of years, not much to keep it running good.
Johh
In article <1998072514574500.KAA09…@ladder03.news.aol.com>,
ericdw…@aol.com says…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
>Whenever my car (90 Camry) is sitting for a long time, then I crank the
engine,
>a horrendous amount of blue smoke (oil burning) comes out the exhaust. After
>10 seconds or so, it stops doing it, and doesn’t do it after if the engine is
>warm.
>Dealer said that its some leaky valve in the engine and said estimate was
$700+
>to fix. They said its not worth it being the car has 141K miles, and that is
>is more economical to just dump in a quart of oil everytime the oil hits the
E
>mark on the dipstick.
>Should I just do this? Will this condition deteriorate any further?
Thoughts,
>comments, experiences?
>Eric
Comment by admin — January 29, 2010 @ 5:16 am
This symptom can be worn valve guides..
Do you really have to add oil between oil changes?.. I get a bit of smoke
initally (178K miles) but change the oil every 3000 miles and never have to
worry about adding oil.
Dick.
EricDWong wrote in message
<1998072514574500.KAA09…@ladder03.news.aol.com>…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
>Whenever my car (90 Camry) is sitting for a long time, then I crank the
engine,
>a horrendous amount of blue smoke (oil burning) comes out the exhaust.
After
>10 seconds or so, it stops doing it, and doesn’t do it after if the engine
is
>warm.
>Dealer said that its some leaky valve in the engine and said estimate was
$700+
>to fix. They said its not worth it being the car has 141K miles, and that
is
>is more economical to just dump in a quart of oil everytime the oil hits
the E
>mark on the dipstick.
>Should I just do this? Will this condition deteriorate any further?
Thoughts,
>comments, experiences?
>Eric
Comment by admin — January 29, 2010 @ 5:16 am
>Do you really have to add oil between oil changes?.. I get a bit of smoke<BR>
>initally (178K miles) but change the oil every 3000 miles and never have
>to<BR>
>worry about adding oil.<BR>
Same here. No oil added needed. So, no worry? Is it going to shorten the
life of anything?
Eric
Comment by admin — January 29, 2010 @ 5:16 am
Same experience with an ’88. The valveseals are damaged, perhaps from
overheating, Expensive job, if it passes smog test fine: oil is cheaper…
–
David Hughes
Swedbass Productions
(has nothing to do with fish, but low frequencies)
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
JJohn wrote in message <6pf684$r6…@news.hal-pc.org>…
>My ’88 did the same thing. Hardened valves according to the dealer(and
Rick).
>Your repair is cheap, mine was $1,300.00. I’d do it if you’re going to
keep
>the car another couple of years, not much to keep it running good.
>Johh
>In article <1998072514574500.KAA09…@ladder03.news.aol.com>,
>ericdw…@aol.com says…
>>Whenever my car (90 Camry) is sitting for a long time, then I crank the
>engine,
>>a horrendous amount of blue smoke (oil burning) comes out the exhaust.
After
>>10 seconds or so, it stops doing it, and doesn’t do it after if the engine
is
>>warm.
>>Dealer said that its some leaky valve in the engine and said estimate was
>$700+
>>to fix. They said its not worth it being the car has 141K miles, and that
is
>>is more economical to just dump in a quart of oil everytime the oil hits
the
>E
>>mark on the dipstick.
>>Should I just do this? Will this condition deteriorate any further?
>Thoughts,
>>comments, experiences?
>>Eric
Comment by admin — January 29, 2010 @ 5:16 am